Thursday, April 29, 2010

Collaboration

My group and I had to present the work we had done to our class, and because we are researching Vivienne Westwood, we can't just present it in our work books, we made a visual collaboration of the four collections we looked at.

Her is our Presentation:






We took elements form each collection, the Tartan form The 18987 Harris Tweed (one of the triangles of the bikini), The Hand Drawn Material from Fall 2008, The Identity controversy from fall 2010, hence the male mannequin in a bikini with a mustache drawn on the face of a woman. And also the runners number from the Spring 2010 collection. It was also Fall2008 and Spring 2010 focused on Global Warming, and being eco friendly, so we used paper to make our garment as it is a resource that is able to be recycled and used again.

Vivienne Westwood Group Work


So the previous post was my contribution to my groups Vivienne Westwood exploration. I picked a Collection, and the other three picked one also. I will post the others work on here as well :)

Fall RTW 2010:





Syle.com talks about the “granny-like” and “librarian-like”ness of the start of the collection, which progresses into a sexy, messy, party look, and overall praises what it says to be “one of Westwood's stronger collections in a while”. The models wear dark lip liner and drawn on facial hair, which makes them look quite masculine, and juxtaposes with the feminine aspects of the collection; this challenges the viewer to bring up different ideas on genders and sexualities. There is a lot of burnt orange, dark greys and purples, taupes, deep blues, accents of black as well as some pastel pinks and purples in the mix, alongside some highly printed and patterned fabrics. The designer has added weight to the silhouette by emphasising shoulders, having billowing sleeves, using flowing baggy pants or drop crotches or making the garments big and oversized (jackets and coats) and full, heavy skirts. The outfits are fairly balanced so, if the pants are baggy, the designer has cinched in at the waist before having a wide shouldered jacket, so that the female figure can still be seen. These help to contrast the masculinity and femininity in each outfit, and in turn, the whole collection. The collection mainly looks as though it is well constructed and tailored, however there are some parts that look as though they are a bit flung together. This looks quite odd in some garments, however it is likely it may have been Westwood’s objective to slightly shock the viewer, as she has done in past collections.

Spring RTW 2010:

1987 Harris Tweed Collection:






The Harris Tweed collection of A/W 1987 celebrated Westwood's love affair with traditional English clothing and also her growing obsession with royalty. It was named after the woolen fabric hand woven in the Western Isles of Scotland. The crown is worn by Sarah Stockbridge, Westwood's muse.

Westwood said: 'It's comic, but terribly chic. I like to keep it on when I am having dinner. It's so English.'

Silhouette: Most of the shapes in this collection are very inspired by royalty.

Fabric: There is a wide range of fabric used in this collection. Lots of denim and tartan. This all adds to the idea of playing with royalty as royal people would not have been seen to wear denim. Usually Harris Tweed, the HandWoven fabric from the Western Isles of Scotland.

Construction: Construction appears to be pretty standard, no methods used that deserve special note.

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Vivienne Westwood


Dame Vivienne Westwood proves that you really can do what you want in fashion.

Some say she is the Queen of punk, others, Britian's most influential designer.
Basically she is a legend in the fashion world! She really is the mother of Punk and New Wave fashion. She was the one who pioneered their entrance into mainstream fashion.

You may not think you have heard of her... but some where some how you are bound to have seen one of her designs. Such as this gown from Sex and the City Movie, when Carrie Bradshaw was gifted a Vivienne Westwood gown for her wedding:





Even though this dress is being used for a formal ocassion the signature Vivienne Westwood style is still present.
I want to look at her fall 2008 collection which I feel is an absolutely amazing representation of Westwood's style and personality.

Vivienne Westwood- Fall 2008 RTW (Ready To Wear) - Paris
(if you click on it, a larger image comes up)













Vivienne is such a passionate person, she shows that with her inspiration fot this collection.
Vivienne has always been about making statements about political / social issues.
She has focused on the controversial issue of Global Warming, taking a trip down the Amazon River she was inspired and tis collection was born from that.
She (Vivienne Westwood) imagined Eco Warriors from the depths of the Amazon. An idea that provokes thoughts among the viewers of this (collection) as its not about saving where they are living right now, but it reminds the viewer that there are other people being impacted because of the choices you are making. A very powerful thing for a designer to do!

She also stepped up again and used a fantastic resource of a class or 7 and 8 year olds at Portland School in Nottingham, England. She briefed them on the situation with global warming, and then got them to imagine a society of Eco warriors living deep in the jungle. She then got them to illustrate the fabric being used for this collection. How awesome is that? using these children who are not limited in their imaginations to hand paint the fabric!!

This collection is the uniform for these imagined ECO-WARRIORS, it also includes garments for when the warriors venture into the city, such these gowns:

In the choice of material colours Vivienne has used quite nature relating colours, browns, greens and blues, as well as some purples showing the natural beauty that appears in nature from things such as flowers and blossoms. The Amazon is a rather exotic and colourful place and the Children from Portland School have captured that fantastically with their beautiful hand painted works, the use of bright bold colours is a great reflection of the rainforest.

She has used a varied range of materials, from FAKE fur, to taffeta all embellished with jungle elements such as flowers and leaves.

Vivienne Westwood is not one to read the latest magazines and keep up to date on all the latest fashion trends, she is not a slave to fashion at all! She just brings out things that she is passionate and excited about! Not caring about how other people will react, she just wants to make a reaction, give people something to talk, think and get excited about, something outside their normal day to day thoughts.
This makes her such a fantastic designer, this has given her the ability to step outside of the fashion box and create new things, open doors for other people in the world of fashion!

Saturday, April 24, 2010

Arming ourselves

Armor is put on as a form of protection.

Whether this is done intentionally by everyone... I am not certain.

I know that I do, maybe not 24/7 there are times when my armor is removed to certain degrees, in the presence of different people.

By armor I don't mean Shield, Breastplate and Sword all made of crazy strong metal, I'm pretty sure that with all that on me I couldn't even stand up! I mean more of an Armor of the 21st century: Clothing!

We all have our insecurities that we wish to cover up, things that all though people will often tell us: "don't worry about it", "it is fine", and "You're gorgeous" (and reader, You are gorgeous by the way!) we still secretly think about them and are worrying about people noticing, or we are protecting it from being seen, by clothing. For example, I know that I'm not fat, but I am not a fan of my stomach, its just how I feel about it. Joining the gym and actually going + getting a spray tan could possibly change that, but you are not going to see me sporting a top that bares my midriff to the world anytime soon!

Maybe I am putting on that armor of loose stomach covering clothes for my own peace of mind, so that there would be no chance of anyone pointing out: how pale it is; how I have a small bakery business when I sit down, or my random scars from chickenpox. Someone pointing those out would make me even more self conscious! Or maybe I am just sticking with something I was taught growing up, about being modest. Short skirt balanced with a not so short top, wearing tights to tone down the skin exposure, or at least the thought that there should be something left to the imagination.

Really I do know that my tummy is fine! I am not having a bitch about being fat, but we all have some part of our bodies that is not our favorite. Just trying to address this matter of 21st Century Armor.

I ask you reader, think. Do you put up armor? Do you put clothes on as though it is armor? (whether it is consciously or subconsciously)

I ask you to please comment on this post.... tell me your story or non story. This will really help me with my assignment :)

Charles Frederick Worth


The first fashion house to be set up was in 1858.

THE HOUSE OF WORTH

Born in England, later known as the first famous French designer. Charles Worth opened his first store in Paris in 1985, "The House of Worth". Unlike anything else of that time, Worth opened his store which had pre-made gowns on living models for the customer's to see.

Worth reinvented the world of fashion! Historically known as the Father of Haute Couture.
Due to lack of money in his family he was forced to work from an early age, his job a sales assistant in a department store, then at a textiles company, he learnt a lot about what Women wanted and needed. At the age of 20, Worth took a job at a fabric firm in Paris, where he could study design while he worked. Worth wanted to become a FASHION DESIGNER. Simple as it may sound today, in the 1800's fashion design was almost unheard of, gowns were created based on collaborations with the dressmaker and the person wanting the garment, their ideas based upon pictures of popular dresses.

At the fabric firm in Paris, Worth began introducing his idea of dress design to customers, it was the first time that ladies could receive the dress, design and fabric, at the same location.

With his knowledge of women's needs, textiles and his passion to create lavish designs, Haute Couture was born.

Two Evening Dresses

Silk Evening Dress

Silk and Pearl Wedding Dress

IMAGES FROM (http://www.metmuseum.org)

Historical Knowledge ( the rise of Worth as a Design was at the time of the Establishment of the Second Empire in France, Ruled by Emperor Napoleon III, Which saw the Royal House restored, which gave Worth even more opportunity to expand his business as the restoration of the Royal house made Paris the setting for numerous state occasions.

Charles Worth caught the attention of the Empress of France when the Wife of the Austrian Ambassador bought a dress from him. Worth soon became the Court designer, making dresses for European royalty. His phenomena soon spread to the Americas, he began making dresses for Famous and Wealthy americans also, such as the Astors and the Vanderbilts.